Here’s What Designers And Stylists Have To Say

Portrait Of American fashion model Toukie Smith (born Doris Smith) and her brother, fashion designer Willi Smith, New York, New York, 1980s. (Photo by Anthony Barboza/Getty Images)

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For years, Black fashion has shaped culture while often existing outside traditional recognition. But during a recent conversation with designers, stylists and cultural leaders — including Bruce and Glen Proctor of Bruce Glen, Deseri Kelley of Deseri, Jean Charles of Alani Moon, Jennifer Sinigal-Cornelius of Born to Roam, Kia Marie Davidson , Kyle Bryan of Function Global, Marty Mc’Fresh, Mickey Freeman, Nancey Flowers-Harris of Vontelle Eyewear, and Pharoah Kirk— one thing became clear: Black fashion is no longer waiting for permission to define luxury.

“Black fashion has always reflected cultural shifts and social movements,” said Bruce and Glen Proctor. “Our work brings storytelling and craftsmanship that pushes beyond tradition.”

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Through the lens of Black cultural history, fashion’s evolution reflects a shift from influence to ownership — expanding beyond streetwear roots into today’s couture conversations.

Celebrity Stylist Freeman, began the conversation by describing Black fashion as a vibrant tapestry shaped by cultural shifts and social movements, emphasizing that it has always represented more than clothing — it’s a movement.

Bruce and Glen Proctor continued by adding that Black designers have shaped the very language of fashion — defining how culture, craftsmanship and storytelling show up in luxury.

From Harlem Renaissance Elegance To Cultural Resistance

The fashion experts traced the roots of Black luxury to the Harlem Renaissance, an era where art, music and fashion converged into a new visual language of elegance.

Bryan, described it as a turning point. “Jazz culture introduced luxurious gowns and zoot suits that challenged perceptions of Black life,”Bryan stated. “It showcased sophistication and artistry during a time when those qualities were often denied.”

Charles framed the evolution as a cultural progression. “Black fashion has moved from resilience and survival to global influence,”Charles adds. “Today, designers are blending culture and high fashion while redefining industry standards.”

Flowers-Harris, pointed to designer Zelda Wynn Valdes as an architect of mid-century glamour, noting how she dressed icons like Eartha Kitt and Joyce Bryant while defining body-con elegance long before it entered the mainstream fashion conversation.

Figures like Anne Lowe, Elizabeth Keckley and Stephen Burrows laid the groundwork long before diversity initiatives became part of fashion’s vocabulary — a reminder that Black luxury has deep historical roots.

Flowers-Harris also highlighted Arthur McGee as a pivotal pioneer, describing him as one of the first known Black designers to run a Seventh Avenue design studio — a milestone that helped establish American fashion’s global influence while opening doors for future generations.

When Hip-Hop Turned Street Style Into Global Luxury

An entire chapter of Black fashion history was reshaped by loss during the AIDS epidemic of the 1990s — a period that erased countless creative voices from the industry’s collective memory.

“The industry celebrated some designers, but many of our own weren’t written into the textbooks,” shared Bryan, referencing pioneers like Patrick Kelly and Willi Smith.

For wardrobe stylist Marty Mc’Fresh, hip-hop marked the moment luxury had to acknowledge Black cultural power.

“Dapper Dan reimagined European luxury logos for Harlem clients before brands recognized the value,” Mc’Fresh shares. “The culture made luxury relevant.”

Mc’Fresh also paid homage to fashion pioneer Virgil Abloh, noting how he helped shift the industry’s perception of streetwear. “Virgil made sure mainstream fashion understood that this aesthetic belonged on the runway,” said Mc’Fresh. “Seeing baggy fits at Louis Vuitton changed the conversation around luxury.”

“Our culture and creativity gave birth to what is now a global streetwear industry,” said Bruce and Glen Proctor. “What started in community spaces has become a worldwide movement.”

Freeman echoed that sentiment, pointing to the 1990s and early 2000s as a defining era when stylists reshaped the visual language of music and fashion

Today, designers like Bruce Glen and Pharoah Kirk continue to merge tailoring with cultural storytelling, reflecting a shift where what once existed on the block now informs luxury runways worldwide.

Sinigal-Cornelius, highlighted stylist June Ambrose’s impact. “She changed how hip-hop looked and how fashion responded to it,” Sinigal-Cornelius expressed. “That era proved Black creativity wasn’t just influencing trends — it was setting them.”

“Virgil made sure mainstream fashion understood that this aesthetic was meant for the runway,” said Mc’Fresh. “Seeing baggy fits at Louis Vuitton changed the conversation around luxury.”

Access, Capital And The Industry’s Ongoing Gap

Despite undeniable influence, the powerhouse group emphasized that structural challenges remain.

Access to capital and mentorship remains one of the most persistent barriers for emerging Black designers trying to scale beyond visibility.

“Talent has never been the issue — access has,” shared Sinigal-Cornelius. “Without consistent investment, mentorship and the right networks, creativity doesn’t always have the infrastructure it needs to grow.”

Greater visibility remains essential as Black designers continue pushing into both luxury and mainstream fashion spaces.

“The momentum around Black fashion isn’t slowing down — 2026 is pushing us into an even bigger era of visibility and ownership,” Kelley noted

“We get more recognition when we tell our stories on our own terms and align with athletes, artists and leaders who amplify our work,” urged Kelley. “It’s about showing up consistently on the biggest stages — not just in special moments, but as part of everyday fashion.”

For Kirk, athlete partnerships are about visibility and cultural alignment, not just styling moments. “Athletes carry global influence, and when they choose Black designers it redefines who luxury is for and who gets seen,” Kirk says.

In my own reporting, I’ve seen how Black designers often drive trends while navigating systems that don’t always reflect their cultural impact. The shift toward ownership — not just representation — feels increasingly urgent.

Sustainability, Ownership And Cultural Memory

Another theme that surfaced repeatedly was sustainability — framed less as a modern innovation and more as cultural tradition.

“Black communities have always been resourceful,” Kia Marie emphasized. “Reimagining materials and making something from nothing is part of our history.”

Kia Marie noted that, creativity didn’t start on the runway — it started at home, reusing cookie tins and margarine containers. “That mindset is sustainability at its core.

The collective also spoke candidly about imitation in the digital era. Social media has amplified visibility, but it has also accelerated copying — raising questions about authorship and ownership in a fast-moving trend cycle.

“It’s okay to be inspired, but you have to make it your own — don’t be a carbon copy,” said Freeman, speaking on the rise of dupes and trend culture fueled by social media.

The first time Charles saw his design replicated by a bigger brand like Urban Outfitters, it was bittersweet. “Seeing my design show up at Urban Outfitters was a turning point,” stated Charles. “It was frustrating, but it also confirmed that my ideas had an impact.”

“When Black designers are copied, it’s more than just losing credit — it strips away the creativity and identity behind the work,” said fashion influencer Kia Marie.

For the Proctor twins, originality remains central to Black fashion’s future. Designers, they noted, must continue pushing boundaries while protecting their creative identity.

Why Black Fashion’s Next Era Is About Ownership

As the conversation turned toward the future, the focus shifted from visibility to permanence.

Deseri noted, “Black excellence should be highlighted year-round,” When that happens, Black luxury stops being an exception and becomes essential.”

From stylists like Freeman to founders like Charles and Sinigal-Cornelius, there was a shared belief that partnerships, infrastructure and cultural storytelling will define the next chapter of fashion.

“When you own your culture and your voice, there’s no need for surface-level inclusion — the power is already yours,” explained Marie, reflecting on a new era of ownership in fashion.

And from my perspective, covering these conversations in real time, it’s clear that Black fashion is no longer asking for entry into luxury spaces — it’s actively reshaping them.

Because if history has shown us anything, it’s that Black designers have never waited for permission to lead. The industry is simply catching up to a blueprint that has existed all along.