What is Black dandyism? Explaining this year’s theme


Black dandyism: Met Gala to highlight Black influence in fashion
Black dandys and clothiers are being celebrated with this year’s Met Gala theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
The Met Gala, which is widely considered the most prestigious fashion event in the world, will soon pay homage to Black menswear and suit tailoring.
The 2025 Met Gala dress code is “Tailored for You,” a nod to the museum’s “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” Costume Institute exhibit, which will be on public view from May 10 to Oct. 26.
This year’s Met Gala theme and dress code are inspired by Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, “Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity,” per USA TODAY.
The exhibition will explore “the importance of style to the formation of Black identities in the Atlantic diaspora,” particularly in the United States and Europe, and interpret “dandyism” as both an aesthetic and a socio-political strategy through garments, art and other objects from the 18th century to the present.
Here’s what to know about dandyism and the 2025 Met Gala theme.
What is the Met Gala theme?
The 2025 Met Gala theme celebrates the Costume Institute’s new spring exhibition, titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” (on view from May 10 to Oct. 26).
The exhibition, which explores the importance of clothing and style to the formation of Black identities in the Atlantic diaspora, will be arranged by 12 characteristics of Black dandyism. The exhibition was spearheaded by curator in charge Andrew Bolton, as well as guest curator Monica Miller, professor and chair of Africana Studies at Barnard College, Columbia University.
“Superfine” will feature garments, paintings, photographs and more from artists including Torkwase Dyson, Tanda Francis, André Grenard Matswa and Tyler Mitchell, all exploring the indelible style of Black dandies, from the 18th century through the present day.
What is the Met Gala 2025 dress code?
Although it’s different, the dress code, “Tailored for You,” will coincide with the “Superfine” Costume Institute exhibit.
The dress code is “purposefully designed to provide guidance and invite creative interpretation,” according to Vogue, as its top editor Anna Wintour co-chairs the event. As in years past, some fashion houses will likely be strict constructionists, veering toward literal interpretations of the theme, while others will take it as a mere jumping-off point.
Who’s hosting the Met Gala?
LeBron James will serve as honorary co-chair while Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, A$AP Rocky and Lewis Hamilton are also slated to be co-chairs of the event.
However, James posted to X on Monday that due to an knee injury, he will not be in attendance.
What is a Black dandy? What is dandyism?
Black dandyism started emerging as far back as 1700s England, when slave owners who wanted to flaunt their wealth began dressing their slaves in expensive clothing, creating a “dandified black servant” or “luxury slave” trend, according to Miller, a professor at Columbia University who also serves as The Met’s guest curator for this exhibit.
But Black dandyism is about more than just aesthetics, Vogue reports. Black dandyism became a practice in which Black people used the power of clothing, personal style and even humor and wit as a form of resistance, and a way for them to push back on societal limitations and negative perceptions not just in terms of race, but also class, gender and sexuality.
As USA TODAY writes, “Black men read the room, recognizing the power dynamics clothing signaled, and began making their involuntary uniforms their own.”
At its core, the Black dandy figure uses fashion and aesthetics to engage in these power dynamics, highlighting the importance of personal style in shaping one’s identity.
What is Black dandy fashion?
Although Black dandy fashion prioritizes versatility and self-expression above all else, there are some defining style characteristics, Vogue writes. Sharp suits, polished shoes and bow ties have historically been common elements found in dandy fashion. Modern and classic Black dandies also tend to embrace bespoke tailoring, extravagant accessories and bold color palettes.
Vogue adds that Black dandy fashion also tends to mix European tailoring with African textiles, American street style and other Black diasporic influences to create an aesthetic that is both “universal and deeply personal.”
Black dandy examples
Miller points to historic figure Julius Soubise as an example of the Black dandy. Soubise was a freed slave and 18th-century London socialite described as a “sartorial impresario.”
But modern-day examples include Prince, André Leon Talley, André 3000, Dapper Dan, LaQuan Smith; Tyler, the Creator; Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, Janelle Monáe, Solange and others.
What is a zoot suit?
Zoot suits are characterized by high-waisted draped pants and oversized jackets with exaggerated shoulders and large lapels, CNN reports. Zoot suits gained popularity during the Harlem Renaissance, a cultural, artistic and literary movement within the Black community that emerged in the early 20th century and was a pivotal time for Black dandyism.
The zoot suit was later adopted by Mexican American and Filipino American men in Los Angeles, CNN adds.
What were the Zoot Suit Riots?
The Zoot Suit Riots occurred in 1943 and were a series of attacks by white servicemen and police officers against Black, Mexican and Filipino men, particularly those who were wearing the style.
What time does the Met Gala start?
The Met Gala will be livestreamed on Vogue’s website and social media channels, including YouTube, beginning at 6 p.m. ET.
(This story was updated to add new information.)